1. Choose your coating
|Polyurethane||Moisture cured (solvent based, strong and toxic smelling)||8 hours||
|Water bourne (water based, non-smelling and non-toxic)||4 hours||
|Natural||Oil (oil based, non-smelling and non-toxic)||12 hours||
2. Choose your sheen
3. Choose your colour
If matching an existing floor or a colour the best way is to do a few samples on the existing floor to get as close as possible to the exiting colour. This can be quite a hard process as it all depends on the age and wear factor of the original floor colour.
4. Gaps between floorboards
- It is not best practice to fill gaps between floor boards.
- If you insist, we can fill your floors with filler which is a similar colour to your floor, however when the seasons change and your floor moves the filler can crack.
5. Nail holes, gouges and other holes
- Some floors need nail hole filling while other floors should not be filled so they keep their unique rustic look. Nail hole filling is generally a customer preference.
- We can discuss whether to fill or not at the time of the quote.
6. Remove furniture and appliances
- Please move all furniture, fridge, dishwasher etc before we arrive.
- The customer is solely responsible for moving their furniture due to liability and insurance issues.
7. Keep the floor free from silicones and sprays
- Any silicone based product that comes into contact with the floor after sanding will cause rejection of the coating. E.g. Flysprays, fragrance sprays, household cleaners can all react with the floor coatings.
- Silicone is often found on the footwear of plumbers and glaziers.
- DO NOT use any of these before or during the process
8. Find alternative accommodation
- You will need to find alternative accommodation or live within another area of the home as you will not be able to walk on the floor and the smell is very strong and toxic if moisture-cured polyurethane is used.
- Allow 24 hours after finishing before moving back in.
9. Schedule the floor sanding – crucial to the quality of the finished floor
- Ensure that no other tradesmen are carrying out work while sanding and coating is being done.
- For the best results ensure all other tradesmen have completed their work or are away from the floor before the floor sanding begins.
- This is due to the fact that if someone so much as opens a door or window it could result in dust on the floor, someone fitting a light in the ceiling could drop dust on the floor, a builder could drop a hammer on the floor – all of which affect the quality of the finished floor.
- Paint the ceiling and walls prior to sanding and coating your floors. The skirting boards should be painted after sanding and coating as our machines may rub and mark them during the sanding process.
- It is advisable with new kitchens to leave kick boards off until completion of the floor.
- We recommended completing the floor sanding and coating before laying carpet as new carpet creates carpet fibre which may stick to the finished coating.
10. Prepare the site
- Ensure there are a minimum of two power plugs available for our equipment .
- Ensure we have adequate lighting.
- Ensure we can we get the heavy machinery inside.
- Switch all central heating, under floor heating or air conditioning units off. Do not turn any of these on again until all coats have been done and floors are completely dry.
- Make sure all gas pilot lights (including hot water system) are out. Gas and electrical appliances are to be disconnected by qualified personnel and removed.
- Remove all indoor plants as the solvents in polyurethane will damage foliage.
- Remove all unsealed food from the pantry and other storage areas (as the smell of polyurethane can taint them).
1. Stay off the floor
- The area needs to be isolated entirely. Once we have polyurethaned, you and everyone else must stay off the floor until advised.
- If you stand on the polyurethane that has not quite cured, you risk putting a foot print or dust in the floor.
2. Stay away from the area
- Even opening a door to see how things look can result in carpet dust and other dusts to travel onto the floor and create dust specs in the polyurethane.
3. Keep the floor free from silicones and sprays
- Again, the use of flysprays or cleaners can react with the polyurethane, do not use these at all during the process
1. Keep the areas well ventilated
2. Avoid walking on the floor for at least 24 hours
- Only walk on the floor with socks on
- No shoes for 48 hours
- Note that It takes 7 days for the polyurethane to fully harden.
- Avoid getting water on the floor for 7-10 days
- keep pets claws well trimmed and off the floor for at least 24 hours to avoid scratches on the floor
Kids – keep plastic wheeled bikes off the floor for at least 24 hours to avoid scratches
3. Wait at least 72 hours after the final coat is applied to put your furniture back in the rooms
- Avoid dragging furniture, lift and place where possible otherwise the polyurethane will be damaged.
- If you drag your furniture across the floor you will risk scratching or gouging your floor
- To assist with minimising scratching of your newly sanded and coated floor, place or glue small pieces of cut carpet or protective furniture pads to the feet of all furniture and heavy objects.
- You can put your furniture back at your own risk after 48 hours.
- Avoid putting rugs down for 7 days, it is best to keep the floors ventilated for curing
4. Keep the floor free from silicones and sprays
- While the polyurethane is curing (7-10 days), refrain from spraying any aerosols i.e. flyspray or air freshener etc as this can cause a reaction if it were to land on the polyurethane.
- Protect your floor from direct sunlight and strong light by using curtains/ blinds and moving rugs regularly. Excessive light can cause the wood colour to change
- Furniture – Fit protective pads to furniture legs for extra protection from scratching.
- Pets – keep pets claws well trimmed
- Kids – keep plastic wheeled bikes off the floor
- High heels – Never wear high heels or stilettos on timber floors as the heel point damages the floor and leaves indentations.
- Your floor may need a re-glaze (maintenance coat). This is where we wash your floor down with a solvent wash then lightly sand back the floor, vacuum, then apply 1 or 2 coats of polyurethane in your choice of finish. They will look near new again. As soon as the first signs of wear are visible, we can re-glaze the floor. This renovation process is much cheaper and quicker than a full sand and recoat. If this is done on a periodic basis, your floor will last forever. Note that this refinishing will not remove any physical damage (gouges, scratches etc.) that may be present.
- Mop up any spills immediately as water can damage your floor
- Vacuum or sweep your floors regularly using a soft broom or attachment
- Mop your floor every 2 – 4 weeks using the cleaning product specifically designed for your timber floor
- Use electrostatic mats and mops wherever possible to greatly cut down the need for maintenance.
Moisture Cured Polyurethane
Wash regularly with hot water and methylated spirits (¼ cup meths to 5 litres of hot water)
Water Bourne Polyurethane
Wash regularly with hot water and a small amount of dishwashing detergent
Oiled wood floors need to be cleaned with a specific soap designed to clean and add protective oils.
2. Do Not
- Wash floors with abrasive cleaners
- Use polish, waxes, or silicone finishes (these products can leave a surface film or can scratch the floor and affect the bonding or additional re-glaze coats)
- Use ballroom dancing powder
- Use steam mops to clean your floor
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